COMBINATION TWILLS

COMBINATION TWILLS:

In these types of weaves two different types of continuous twills are combined together alternately. The

combination may be warp way or weft way. Accordingly warp or weft faced twills may be used suitably.

The angle of twill is influenced by the method of combination. If the twills are combined warp way, then

the angle of twill is less than 45° and if the twills are combined weft way the angle of twill angle is

greater than 45°.

Combination twills find extensive use in the worsted industry in the production of garment fabrics, as

these weaves are capable of producing compact textures. These twills are constructed by two methods :

1. End and end combination
2. Pick and pick combination.

In the first method the twill weaves are combined end way and in the second method twill weaves are

combined in pick way. The designs for the different types of combination twills are shown in Figs. 4.13and 4.14.

Combined twill constructed by end combination

Fig. 4.13 A and B show the basic twill designs. In Fig. 4.13 A is shown a 1/3 twill and in Fig. 4.13 B

is shown a 2/2 twill and in Figs. 4.13 C, D and E show the design, draft and peg plan respectively.

The type of draft used here is the divided draft. The heald shafts are divided into two groups, the first

group controls the first design (1/3 twill) and the second heald shaft controls the second design (2/2

twill).

Combined twill constructed by Pick and Pick Combination

In Fig. 4.14 is shown the design for combined twill constructed by pick and pick combination.

Fig. 4.14A and B show the basic designs. The weave marked weft way. Figs. 4.14 C, D and E show the

design, draft and peg plan respectively. The draft used is a straight draft and hence the peg plan is same

as design.